A local’s guide to Sheffield: from magnificent gardens to the best bakery around | Travel

After more than 20 years in the city, the author of The Flower Fix see tons of great places to eat and explore

Meal

The Marmadukes Cafe has a sustainable and independent spirit, with farm-to-table food. Its Old Sorting Office headquarters is a converted Royal Mail warehouse, beautifully reimagined with Scandinavian-inspired design. I usually walk there from my shop, down Sharrowvale Road, and down Nether Edge. Their salads have been a great love of mine – my current favorite is the lime mint broccolini. It’s a perfect place to meet friends for lunch or soften the blow of the day’s administrative chores with a coffee or three and sometimes even a big slice of cheesecake.

Inspiration

I couldn’t have wished for a more abundant source of natural inspiration than the Sheffield Botanic Gardens, southwest of the city center. The grounds are home to magnificent Grade II listed Paxton glass pavilions, some of the first curvilinear glazed structures ever built. An impressive 18,060 glass panels shape this beautiful 90 meter long greenhouse.

flowers illustration
Illustration: Hennie Haworth / The Guardian

The gardens are surrounded by old stone walls that absorb noise from the outside world. There is a great variety of plants and there is always something new to discover in each season. I first visited the gardens when I was studying fine arts and I remember discovering the magic of eléboros. They really caught my eye because they bloom in winter.

Neighborhood

Sourdough Breads at Forge Bakehouse
Sourdough Breads at Forge Bakehouse

Nether Edge is a wide and leafy area with Victorian houses, independent shops and cafes. It’s the kind of place where you can get lost discovering vintage shops and restaurants on lime-lined streets. Whether it’s Italian coffee, organic produce, natural wines, a rare record you’ve been looking for, or a friendly place to get yourself a key cut, you’ll probably find what you’re looking for here. Bench, a neighborhood bistro and bar, serves amazing combinations of locally sourced small plates and seasonal cocktails. Going down to Abbeydale Road, you will find the eclectic mix of shops and warehouses that make up the Antiques Quarter. Thrift stores galore, a herbarium, the best bakery around (Forge Bakehouse) and, watch out for shameless tacos, a decent florist too – swallows and apricots.

Green space

Sheffield is on the edge of the Peak District and with little effort you can immerse yourself in its nature. Wyming Brook, at the western end of Sheffield, has spectacular views of the Rivelin reservoirs and the city beyond. It is a deeply tranquil forest full of moss covered trees, small waterfalls, and magical wooden bridges that span the valley. There are huge, ancient larches, pines, and redwoods; Look for crossbills, cones, and redstarts. There are many amazing walks and wild swimming that can be done here.

Night life

You might accidentally miss your entrance to Picture House Social if you didn’t know it was there, but hidden beneath a 1920s movie theater is an underground world of fun. Go through the rainbow mural doors and down the spiral staircase and you’ll find a vibrant bar, set in dark wood, a spacious, low-light speakeasy.

As you explore its maze of interconnected spaces, you will discover a more playful side. An Italian-inspired street food canteen, a game room filled with ping pong tables, and giant 70s-style tiles in the shuffle shack room – the game is said to be 15% skill and 85% of strategy. There is also a mini cinema.

To stay

The boutique hotel Brocco on the Park (double rooms from £ 145 per room only) sits on the edge of one of Sheffield’s most popular green spaces, Endcliffe Park. The eight-room Edwardian villa has a wonderful kitchen serving seasonal “mixed small plates” throughout the day. It feels homey but also luxuriously designed.