A Buyer’s Guide to Environmentally-Conscious Wine

In recent decades, consumers have become increasingly aware of how our food is produced and the local sustainable food movement has become mainstream. Many Americans have transitioned to plant-based diets as awareness of industrial agriculture and harmful large-scale agricultural practices like the use of synthetic pesticides, soil depletion, and harmful runoff from fertilizer-laden fields increases. .

However, wine, a product of great importance in culture and cuisine, is largely left out of this conversation, although its environmental impact is significant. In France, where wine production accounts for just 3% of agricultural land, 20% of the country’s pesticide use occurs in vineyards, according to Decanter. Conventional vineyards are mostly monocultures that rely on the heavy use of pesticides and fungicides, of which thousands of pounds are used in California vineyards each year. Greenhouse gases are emitted by harvesting machinery and CO2 as a by-product of the alcoholic fermentation process used by many winemakers.

Finding sustainable and environmentally friendly wines requires some knowledge, including some skepticism and caution about greenwashing. The FDA does not regulate certifications or terminology on wine labels, unlike many other foods, and there are no ingredient labels on a bottle of wine.

The top four recognized wine labels to look for are organic, biodynamic, natural, and sustainable. In general, organic wines avoid synthetic ingredients, biodynamic wines are created with a more holistic approach, natural wines use minimal processes and additives, and sustainable wines reduce waste and emissions. However, each of these terms has many more nuances.

Organic

Like other food products with the USDA organic label, organic wineries do not use synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, or insecticides on their fields. This official label indicates that the winemaking processes (also known as vinification) were organic, without using sulfites, which help preserve the wine and kill bacteria, which do not occur naturally, and fermenting only with certified organic yeast.

The USDA also has a “made from organic grapes” label, which means the grapes were grown organically, but the wine-making process itself was not organic, and small amounts of sulfites and non-organic yeast could have been added. .

This official government label is widely recognized for its rigorous farm certification process and is a reliable indicator of winery practices.

Biodynamic

Founded by Rudolf Steiner, biodynamic agriculture is a holistic approach to agriculture, which takes into account the entire ecosystem and mixes the spiritual with the scientific. This type of regenerative agriculture focuses on revitalizing degraded soils, increasing biodiversity, and sequestering carbon to reverse climate change. For example, a biodynamic farm could raise bees, maintain gardens, compost, and engage in other practices that benefit the entire ecosystem of the farm. Biodynamic farming is also something spiritual, and the sowing / harvesting programs are based on the lunar phases of the moon.

Like its organic counterparts, biodynamic winemaking does not use synthetic chemicals, and there is a similar difference between biodynamic wine and biodynamically grown grapes: the former means that the winemaker used biodynamically grown grapes and did not add yeast or make other adjustments to the wine. the product, while the latter means that the grapes were grown biodynamically, but the process itself was not necessarily biodynamic (aka the fermentation process could have used yeast additives etc).

The non-profit organization Demeter certifies biodynamic wines and vineyards and, unlike most other wine certifications, the biodynamic label is recognized worldwide.

natural

According to its most basic definition, natural wines use the least possible amount of additives, chemical products and technological processes; A natural wine in its purest form would be made from fermented grape juice only, unlike conventional wines that often have added sugars, colorants, stabilizers, and even animal additives like fish bladder and egg whites. While it is not necessarily made with organic or biodynamic grapes, many natural winemakers follow similar standards and do not use chemical inputs.

The natural winemaking process can be traced back to a more traditional way of winemaking, with no artificial practices like filtration, mechanical separation, etc. The absence of sulfites is a common attribute of natural wine, although in small quantities (10-25 parts per million, compared to the 350 allowed in conventional wines) they are generally considered acceptable in winegrowing circles. Given the lack of sulphites and filtration processes, the stability of the wine is usually different; It may also appear cloudy, but many wine lovers report that it tastes superior to conventional wine. Unlike the US, Europe has its own official natural wine label.

Sustainable

“Sustainable” wine is something of a general term with multiple certifications underneath. Sustainable wineries tend to reduce waste and greenhouse gas emissions while conserving water, but the chosen practices are left to the farmer.

The Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing (CCSW) label is one of the most recognized, issued by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance for California wines, representing 81% of all wine produced in the US The vineyard, the winery or both can be certified, all of which are delineated with different labels. Considerations include pest, waste and water management, as well as employee rights.

LIVE (low-input viticulture and oenology) is another recognized label for wineries in the Pacific Northwest, which analyzes the attributes of a region and establishes rules based on the unique conditions of that area; for example, some land use practices might be allowed in an arid region but not in a more humid one. Based in Lodi, California, where 1/5 of California’s grapes are grown, the Lodi Roles certification has many standards for its wines and wineries, including the Pesticide Environmental Assessment System (PEAS), which considers the impact of pesticides in the ecosystem and the vineyard. workers. Work is also a primary consideration of SIP (Sustainability in Practice) certification.

So how do you identify truly environmentally conscious wine?

Many wine stores have separate sections for organic wines, which is a good place to start. When examining the aisles, look for previous certifications / labels; Keep in mind that organic is an official and highly regulated label in the US, unlike the other three, although it does inform consumers about the values ​​and practices of a vineyard or winery.

Certification is often a long, expensive and complicated process; becoming a certified organic farm takes three years and can cost more than $ 1,000. Some vineyards may not have the time or resources to become certified, but they still follow the same standards as those that do. Do your own research on wineries to find out what their practices are; some who are not certified may even go further than those who are when it comes to environmentally friendly practices and ethical labor standards.

If possible, look for local wines from your region (that is, if you live in a wine-producing state). Like local food, wines produced nearby require much less transportation and your business contributes to the local economy.

Environmentally friendly wines can be just as delicious as conventional wine, if not more! Check out Food and Wine’s list of 10 planet-friendly wines for recommendations to get you started.

Linnea graduated from Skidmore College in 2019 with a BA in English and Environmental Studies, and now lives in Brooklyn, New York. Along with his most recent position at Hunger Free America, he has interned with the Sierra Club in Washington, DC., Saratoga Living Magazine, and Philadelphia’s NPR member station WHYY.