Kevin Raub is an American travel journalist who lives in Bologna. He is co-author of more than 100 Lonely Planet guides.
Meal
Bologna is the capital of possibly the most important gastronomic region in Italy, Emilia-Romagna, a historical territory whose cuisines have given rise to a long list of famous specialties throughout the world. lasagna, ragout, tortellini, bologna, Parmesan cheese and balsamic vinegar are from here.
At Pasta Fresca Naldi, a small shop/cafe just west of the historic center, pasta lovers line up to enjoy specialties handcrafted by owner Valeria and her team of grandmothers (grandmothers). Offers that change daily (from around €7) such as tagliatelle with ragu or prosciutto and lemon; tortellini to the mess (baked with pork and cream); Y sausage herb (curly pasta with chorizo) will leave you speechless. With only six stools inside, most people opt for a to-go package.
For a sit-down experience, Trattoria Bertozzi regularly tops the long list of excellent traditional restaurants in Bologna. It’s about a mile from downtown, just far enough away to keep its authentic spirit, with local dishes like gramigna with cured pork, courgettes, saffron, and grated Parmesan cheese.
Inspiration
For five decades, until his death in 2012, Lucio Dalla was Italy’s most revered singer-songwriter. In 2019, his fascinating home within the 15th-century Palazzo Casa Fontana poi Gamberini was opened to the public. Casa di Lucio Dalla (€15 per person) is a wild ride through the eccentric mind of a musical genius, complete with a mind-blowing potpourri of provocative trinkets, personal artifacts and treasured art.
Neighborhood
Bolognina (“Little Bologna”) is located behind the main train station and is a center of working-class life. Bolognina has quite a few attractions – they include a (free) museum about the mysterious Ustica plane crash in 1980 and the 19th century Church of the Sacred Heart with its huge dome – but it packs a lot of character. It’s an up-and-coming, multicultural neighborhood of markets, ethnic restaurants, and countless accents. Gentrification hasn’t quite caught on here, but streets like Via Luigi Serra (home to the fantastically fantastic Trattoria di Via Serra; trendy Fermento bar/cafe; Forno Brisa artisan bakery and Stefino organic ice cream parlor) give a sense of direction. of the Bologna trip, and reward those who venture outside the center.
Green space
No park in Bologna satisfies the longing for green spaces like Giardini Margherita, a 26-hectare expanse opened in 1879 and inspired by English landscape gardens. The city’s former municipal greenhouses have been converted into one of Bologna’s coolest spots, home to Vetro (for vegan drinks and snacks) and Le Serre (with co-working spaces, exhibitions and cultural events). Whether it’s for happy hour or an hour or two of outdoor work, it’s easy to spend an afternoon lazing around here.
Night life
Via del Pratello is Bologna’s famous nightlife street, but for a little more personality with its cocktails, schedule a date with Davo, Don, Jack and Ricky at Ruggine in Vicolo Alemagna. Four friends from various corners of northern Italy opened this cocktail bar in a narrow, bright orange alley 450 meters from Piazza Maggiore. You won’t find Campari, Aperol, or fancy sides here, but locally-driven artisanal mixology.
To take advantage of Italy’s excellent craft beer scene, head a bit west to Il Punto, which has a variety of beers on tap (including a hand-pumped one), with a focus on local beers. craft beer. Fans of wild, sour beers should grab a drink at Ca’ del Brado, a premier craft brewery a few miles south of the city center.
To stay
Near the old town, art historian Maria Ketty runs the charming Bologna nel Cuore, a B&B with two double and two one-bedroom apartments, offering bright interiors, high ceilings, colorfully tiled bathrooms, and hearty breakfasts. Doubles from €125, bolognanelcuore.it