Gone are the days when, to British diners, Indian food meant generic curry in an aluminum can and a paper bag full of greasy poppadoms. Now an increasingly vibrant restaurant scene is putting the spotlight on the country’s vast array of regional traditions and innovative chefs at the forefront of Indian cuisine.
Benares, a pioneer of fine British-Indian cuisine, continues to earn rave reviews and praise from its vantage point in Berkeley Square. It was the first Indian restaurant to win a Michelin star, an honor it regained earlier this year, and was just named the best restaurant in London at the British Curry Awards. It’s not hard to see why: with its elegantly furnished dining room (and elegant staff), Benares feels like a restaurant for special occasions. The menu combines the best of British produce (Scottish scallops, for example, or Gressingham duck) with Indian recipes that emphasize fragrance and delicacy. A ten-course tasting menu (£ 119) can be paired with ‘captivating’ or ‘prestigious’ wine pairings, for £ 65 or £ 95 respectively.
Do not miss: wild halibut tawa masala with Portsmouth clam moilee (£ 38)
A short drive north from Indian Accent is Bombay Bustle, a restaurant that lives up to its name with a friendly atmosphere in its two compact dining rooms, decorated to evoke India’s glorious rail network. An eclectic menu offers small plates, biryanis, main-size curries, and a selection of the tandoor, served with an emphasis on sharing. Seafood is particularly well represented, but vegetarians also have a lot to choose from. Brunch, express menus and tasting menus (six courses for £ 65) offer something for every occasion.
Do not miss: Prawns adipoli with garlic, curry leaves and fresh turmeric (€ 14)
Away from the restaurant-lined streets of central London, Babur in Honor Oak Park is well worth the ten-minute train ride from London Bridge. You can’t miss this southeastern stalwart – it has a life-size sculpted tiger swaying around the side of the building. Inside, the food is an enticing mix of regulars (try the organic chicken cutlet, from Suffolk through Kolkata, soaked in mace and green cardamom and served with a kalonji seed paratha), and a monthly selection of specialties, dedicated to a specific cuisine region. The restaurant is evangelical about pairing wine with Indian food – each dish has a recommendation printed on the menu.
Do not miss: Venison curry, simmered with sweet potato, dark spices and tamarind (£ 19.25)
Named after a field guide to the plant life of India written by two 19th century Scots, Flora Indica (full review) promises to take diners on a journey across the country and through time. Richly furnished in Harris tweed and a Victorian variety, this is the ideal setting for a menu rich in hearty classics spanning the subcontinent. Kashmiri rogan josh, made from Suffolk lamb shoulder, is a good example, as is the coconut-infused malai monkfish and prawn curry from across the country. A selection of set menus is available to theatergoers and groups, as is a five-course tasting menu (£ 47) and a conventional à la carte selection.
Do not miss: corn-fed lemon bergamot chicken tikka with makhani sauce (£ 14)
Just steps from Sloane Square, Kahani (full review) is a very refined example of the modern British-Indian restaurant. A menu that combines Michelin-dyed ingredients with the subcontinent’s most powerful flavor profile (think meat skewers with cumin and truffle oil or guinea fowl tikka) is complemented by an adventurous cocktail menu. Vegans, vegetarians and meat eaters are equally well provided, and many of the dishes can be served as small plates to share or as traditional starters and main dishes. A six-course tasting menu is available for £ 70.
Do not miss: tandoori broccoli with honey, nigella seeds and warm yogurt (€ 14)
Small but perfectly formed, Kutir (full review) occupies an attractive Chelsea townhouse that was previously the home of Vineet Basai’s excellent but short-lived VBL (and which is just around the corner from Kahani). Though slightly less formal than its tasting menu predecessor, Kutir retains a sense of quiet grandeur. A la carte highlights include an unusually light chicken tikka masala and aloo tikki, a crispy potato pie that comes with tamarind and a spicy mint sauce. And for those wanting the full experience, the seven-course ‘Expeditions’ menu costs £ 70 for vegetarians or £ 65 for seafood.
Do not miss: naan with scrambled masala quail eggs and truffle shavings (£ 10, small plate)