Why organic food’s gone out of fashion

Why organic food's gone out of fashion

Is it the fact that organic is a rigid system part of the problem? Patrick Holden, founder of The Sustainable Food Trust and the first person to supply Sainsbury’s with organic carrots, back in the 1980s, thinks it might be. “The problem with organic is that it’s a line-drawing exercise. It says above the line … Read more

How a tiny Cumbrian village became the nation’s gourmet capital

How a tiny Cumbrian village became the nation’s gourmet capital

Still, Cumbria was a different place when L’Enclume opened in 2002. Yes, there were fine-dining restaurants, primarily in grand country hotels. But while they were excellent, they were, according to Cumbrian Ryan Blackburn, head chef at Old Stamp House, ‘with the greatest respect, pretentious’. As for Cartmel, while it had achieved fame as the disputed … Read more

The planet-friendly diet that still lets you eat meat

The planet-friendly diet that still lets you eat meat

In the restaurant world, chefs Ivan Tisdall-Downes and Imogen Davis of Native restaurant on Browns Brook Street in Mayfair highlight star regenerative producers on their menus. “Regen is looking for alternatives to mass-produced food. The way big profit-hungry farming companies make a lot of money for themselves, but it’s damaging our soil,” says Tisdall-Downes, who … Read more