Sleepless in Essaouira: up close and personal with Morocco’s entrancing Gnawa culture

Sleepless in Essaouira: up close and personal with Morocco’s entrancing Gnawa culture

It’s twilight in Essaouira. There’s a stippled afterglow smudging the Atlantic horizon, and the last kitesurfers are padding, barefoot, back to their digs. Behind the beach, snail-sellers are serving steaming cups of soup from their little carts. As the swirl and cry of lesser black-backed gulls begins to fade, the city’s other signature sound rings … Read more

Georgia’s Golden Isles: discovering the Deep South’s best-kept secret

Georgia's Golden Isles: discovering the Deep South's best-kept secret

If Sapelo and Little St Simons were quiet pieces of history and wonder; Jekyll is holiday fun: I sip margaritas while watching waves crash on the shore, and fall asleep on the beach as fishermen cast nets out to sea. Cumberland Island, my last stop, is different and perhaps the most glittering of all the … Read more

The ultimate hotel guide to Copenhagen

The ultimate hotel guide to Copenhagen

7. Hotel Ottilia Best for beer buffs Carlsberg has been quenching Danish thirsts since 1847, and southwest of the centre, its original red-brick brewery is undergoing a transformation to become a new neighborhood of shops and restaurants. Spread across two industrial buildings, Hotel Ottilia is the first hotel to open on site, themed around its … Read more

The inside guide to Bath, a city of romance and ruins

The inside guide to Bath, a city of romance and ruins

It’s the history that draws most visitors to Bath, be it the city’s Roman origins or the gold-hued neoclassical buildings that emerged in the Georgian era. But if you’ve seen the Roman Baths, Bath Abbey and the Jane Austen Center and immersed yourself in the Thermae Bath Spa, or if you’re looking for a different … Read more

A city guide to Nairobi, the blossoming Kenyan capital

A city guide to Nairobi, the blossoming Kenyan capital

Clumsy, soggy, and uncomfortably abrasive – there’s nothing remotely romantic about being kissed by a giraffe. Flapping her femme fatale lashes, my suitor sticks out her purple tongue, eagerly searching for food. I stand behind, while other guests place edible pellets between their lips, inviting the hungry animals to retrieve them with a wet, slimy … Read more