In the restaurant world, chefs Ivan Tisdall-Downes and Imogen Davis of Native restaurant on Browns Brook Street in Mayfair highlight star regenerative producers on their menus.
“Regen is looking for alternatives to mass-produced food. The way big profit-hungry farming companies make a lot of money for themselves, but it’s damaging our soil,” says Tisdall-Downes, who got his start at River Cottage headquarters in Devon.
His recent dishes include “compost broth,” an umami-rich vegetable broth that uses leftovers that normally go to waste. Nutrient-rich compost is organic matter that can be recycled and used as a natural fertilizer to enrich the soil and grow healthy produce. “I love the crazy fact that a teaspoon of good soil contains over a billion microscopic life forms. An entire ecosystem is operating within it,” he says.
Not only is regenerative food touted as more nutritious and healthier for humans, it is also said to be tastier. According to Glen Burrows of Ethical Butcher, regenerated meat is tastier because the animal has had a varied diet, whereas regenerated plants have not been treated with pesticides or grown in a monoculture with poor, “desert” soil.
“Animals in regenerative systems will have lived longer on a more varied diet than their factory-raised counterparts. The taste is very different. Think about the wine. The grape varieties and terroir together create subtle flavor nuances. The same is true for animals that feed on grasses on a particular terroir, versus those that feed on grains, and for plants that grow in rich soil.
“The nutritional values of slow-rise, 100% grass-fed beef are superior to grain-fed beef, especially when it comes to good, healthy fats. Animals raised on regenerative farms and grass-fed have a higher level of omega 3 fatty acids, less omega 6 and higher levels of CLA (conjugated linoleic acid), which studies have linked to the fight against cancer and loss of fat. fat.
“Grass-fed meats also contain a high level of antioxidants, derived from the plants they eat. Whole regenerative meat is a more nutritious product.”
Tisdall-Downes is at pains to emphasize that Regenuary is far from a dig at Veganuary or veganism. “It doesn’t have to be about one or the other. There is nothing stopping you from adopting vegan regenerative eating.”
The problem in January is that it’s hard to stick to a colorful, seasonal vegan diet that isn’t based on imported foods. You’d be looking at lots of beets, artichokes, celeriac, and kale. He also points out that regenerative eating involves eating less meat, but better.
“Regenerative farms don’t produce as much meat as factory farms. It forces you to think from top to bottom, encompassing duck gizzards, oxtail, ox tongue and liver. You can buy a chicken a week and see how many meals you can get out of it.”
Regen products are more expensive, but the added cost can be mitigated by treating meat as a treat, as previous generations did, and using it judiciously to add flavor to stews and pasta dishes, for example.
“Eating regeneratively will naturally tend to steer you away from supermarkets and processed foods to support butchers, fishmongers and smaller-scale producers with your purchasing power. We are dictated by supermarkets when it comes to what we eat. It’s hard work and can be expensive, especially if you have a large family to feed, but this country has some amazing regenerative farms.”
Regen invites us to think about the choices we make when deciding what to have for dinner. You may scoff that only the middle classes have the budget to buy meat at the farmers market and worry about the holistic care of the soil that nurtured your carrots, but every consumer has some power over what they choose. eat.
As for me, if this January I simply find out more about affordable additions or swaps that I can include in my weekly grocery stores, and discover farmers, growers, chefs, and restaurants championing regeneration and exploring non-intensive alternative farming methods, then I will consider my Regenuary 2022 efforts a success.
There isn’t (yet) a food label that demarcates regeneratively grown foods but, happily, counting calories isn’t required, and I’ll raise a glass of compost broth for that.
What is regenerative agriculture?
According to Innovation for Agriculture, regenerative agriculture encourages “a return to mixed farming, where livestock are used as a tool to heal the land between crops.” The goal is to enrich the soil, capture carbon, protect water and increase biodiversity.
How to eat regeneratively according to Ethical Butcher’s Glen Burrows
- “Whether you’re a carnivore, vegetarian or vegan, the same principles of buying from regenerative producers and engaging in discussions about food and agriculture apply,” says Burrows.
- Get as much of your food as possible from regenerative producers, from meat and fish to dairy, grains, nuts, seeds, legumes and vegetables (see box to the right for suggestions)
- Buy from UK suppliers wherever possible and do what you can to minimize the impact of transport, especially in the ‘last mile’ of the food chain as this is where the share of emissions is highest.
- When regenerative products are not an option, look for products from organic, biodynamic or permaculture systems.
- Buy directly from small growers whenever possible, including at farm stores and farmers markets, to shorten the supply chain.
- Ask questions, do research, participate in discussions and share your own ideas about food and the environment.
Where to get the best products
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